|
|
|
1. Pull gently on the dash around the shifter and it will come loose.
There are four clips holding the dash piece down. Unplug the wires to the hazard
button and unscrew shift knob and lift the boot and dash over the shifter.
|
|
|
2. The boot is held in place by a metal ring inside the boot. just pop
it out from the clips holding it in place. You will need to remove the ring to
insert it into the new boot. This can be done without ruining the stock boot to
keep it as a spare. The ring in the boot comes apart on one of the longer left
or right sides. Feel for the metal connector holding the ring together. Cut the
stock boot where you find the connector. You may need a pair of pliers to get
the connector loose so that the ring opens. Pull the ring out of the hole you
created and insert it into the new boot.
|
|
|
3. The center console assemply has to come out to install the Ebrake
boot. there are 4 bolts to remove and a 2 wires to unplug from the electronics
inside of the center console. Use a small flat head screwdriver to remove the
cover for the front bolts.
|
|
|
4. The other 2 bolts are inside the center console, open the arm rest
and use your flathead to remove the bottem of the compartment as you did the
fron and remove these bolts.
The wires are accessed from the back of the console down on the floor.Just
lift until you can see them. In the Spec V Sentra I had 2 wires to disconnect.
Take out the assemply and flip it over. You will want to remove the rubber that
was stock attached to fit the new boot. There are a few screws to remove here
and the cupholders will be removed as well. I folded in the end of the boot and
used a ziptie to secure the boot to the top end of the Ebrake lever. You will
have to put a few holes in the boot for screws to go through. It was a pain to
get the cupholders back inplace as they also help hold the boot on. If not done
well, you will be able to see the boot through the cupholder. The boot gets help
in place by a metal strip that you removed to get that rubber fitting out of the
way.
Reinstall everything in the reverse order of removal.
|
|
|
5. To remove the lid there are four screws.
|
|
|
6. With this off you can slip the leather cover over it and glue it
down to the rubber cover already on yours. There was no modification required
here. Just make sure everything stays tucked and glued. With the console closed
put the newly covered lid over it and press down to make sure it all goes on
properly. Mine was a nice tight fit. Then open it up and hold pressure on the
back to put the screws back on the inside of the lid.
|
|
|
7. All 4 door armrest use the same steps. I used a hot glue gun to
hold all of the leather armrest covers in place.
Removal is easy just lift on the back of the armrest.
|
|
|
8. Just keep lifting here and all the clips holding it down should
come free.
|
|
|
9. I did a little modifying to the covers sent and to my stock pieces
to ensure a nice fit. Some of the leather covers had to be cut to allow some of
the clips to go back into piece. The blue I cut all of the rubber hear from the
edges . The black circles are where you will have to cut the covers to allow the
clips to go back into place.
Glue the armrest on. You can use contact cement, a spray-on glue that will
give you a while to do the final adjustments before it settles fully is
recommended.
On the reattachment for the door armrests the front lip goes on first then
just press down starting at the front and work your way back. The rest should
just snap back down.
|
|
Useful tip
You have installed a product made out of genuine leather. As you know, to maintain a leather product in good condition, you should take care of it. We suggest occasionally (every 4-6 week for example) applying some leather conditioner/UV protector to keep your leather from drying up in the sun and cracking.
Redline Automotive Accessories Corp. will not be held liable for any labor, incidental or consequential damages of any kind. Proceed at your own risk.
|